IMBIBE: DRY FARMED WINES & DRINKS NEWS

MERMAIDMARY wonders if dry farmed wines are a solution for the future

Once upon a time in the wine world it was illegal to irrigate commercial grape vines. As part of the rules and regulations that dictated how wine should be grown in parts of Europe, the vines destined to become quality wines were not allowed to be irrigated. It was believed that watering would increase grape production but at the cost of the quality of the wine. These days irrigating is allowed in Europe but it is highly regulated and permission must be sought. In the face of climate change and rising temperatures, it’s a tricky situation.

Here in New Zealand we don’t have a set of rules dictating how we can or cannot grow our vines or make our wine. So irrigation for everyone? Well, not quite. Some wineries choose either not to irrigate or to use the absolute minimum amount of water to stop vines from floundering. Vines might be irrigated only in the very early stages of life when they are most vulnerable or during extreme droughts.

The winegrowers who employ dry farming, as it is known, believe that a greater sense of place comes from letting the vine roots dig down in search of water. This struggle decreases the vigour of the vine which in turn improves the quality of the grapes it produces. Growers of dry farmed wines believe that if you choose the correct place to plant and treat the soil appropriately with compost or other organic material the vines will succeed without water.

Although dry farming grapes sounds like the solution to a world staring down the barrel of increasing periods of drought, it’s not a solution for all vineyards as it is most suited to areas with limestone, clay or other soils capable of retaining water.

Dry farmed wines are a premium product with a price tag to match – but well worth the investment.