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All about persimmons

This brightly coloured fruit is not only delicious and nutritious, but also surprisingly versatile.

PHOTOS: NICOLA GALLOWAY PORTRAIT: DANIEL ALLEN

However, if I had to choose only one “desert island” fruit, it would be persimmon. I must clarify, it is the firmfleshed ‘Fuyu’ I am pledging my love to here. I find it quite intriguing that the two most common persimmon varieties here are so vastly different from each other. ‘Hachiya’, often referred to as astringent persimmon, is edible only once the fruit is soft – so soft it is almost jelly-like on the inside. If eaten while firm like ‘Fuyu’, the intense astringency results in a very dry mouth feeling. Not an enjoyable, or recommended, experience.

My introduction to persimmon came in the form of the astringent variety. When I first moved to this property 17 years ago, there was a large persimmon tree in the middle of the lawn. To my dismay, I realised I didn’t enjoy its soft flesh as much as I did the firmer ‘Fuyu’ which I discovered at the markets around the same time.

Not sure what to do with a harvest of fruit I wasn’t particularly fond of, I discovered the Japanese method of preserving astringent persimmons by air drying them over a period of time. This technique is called hoshigaki in Japan, with similar air drying methods used in China (shibing) and Korea (gotgam). On the following page, I share the method I now use each year to dry persimmons.

There are culinary uses for persimmons beyond drying. ‘Fuyu’ can be sliced into salads, or served atop toasted muesli. It can also be baked in cakes or muffins. Both varieties can be cooked into jam or a chutney.

Persimmon is also a beautiful tree to behold in the garden with its large green leaves that turn glorious hues of orange and red in winter. The original astringent ‘Hachiya’ persimmon in our garden has long since been removed to make room for more garden beds.

And finally, last winter we planted a ‘Fuyu’ in a more suitable position on the edge of the garden. I eagerly await its fruiting.

Persimmon is my favourite fruit. This might seem unusual considering the wonderful selectionof fruit that grows in Aotearoa.

Dried Persimmons Hoshigaki-Style

Once a week, check the persimmons and give each one a gentle squeeze (with clean hands). This step helps to bring the sugars to the surface of the fruit.

These are magical to make, requiring no fancy equipment beyond a peeler, some string and time to dry. Dried persimmons are similar to dried apricots but sweeter with a chewy texture. The longer persimmons are left to air dry, the firmer they will become. The peeled persimmons can also be dried on racks (for example, a large cake rack) with space between each.

The astringent ‘Hachiya’ variety of persimmon is traditionally used with the sugars concentrating as they dry. However, I have also made them successfully with firm-fleshed ‘Fuyu’.

If you are harvesting persimmons yourself to make these, aim to leave a small length (2–3cm) of stalk intact to tie the string onto.

Makes about 600g Prep time: 1 hour Drying time: 6–8 weeks

2–3 kg firm persimmons (a little under-ripe is ideal) 3–4 metres of thin cotton or hemp string

Use a peeler to thinly remove the skin from the persimmons. Leave the calyx (leafy top) and stem (if there is one) intact. Place the peeled persimmons on a clean tea towel as you go.

Next tie the string to the stalks (if there is one) or the calyx (if not) – this can be a little fiddly. Space the persimmons about 15-20cm apart along the length of the string. Once all the peeled persimmons are attached, hang them in a dry position with good air flow. I hang mine in the rafters of our sunroom. Since they are dried over wintertime, there shouldn’t be an issue with fruit flies, though this will depend on location. If you are concerned about this, drape with some fine-meshed fabric such as cheesecloth or muslin.

Once a week, check the persimmons and give each one a gentle squeeze (with clean hands). This step helps to bring the sugars to the surface of the fruit. As the weeks go by, you will notice the fruit begin to shrink and turn a deep orangebrown colour with a powdery white coating.

Once the persimmons are about a quarter of their original size, after 6-8 weeks, you can begin to eat them. Store in a glass jar in a cool pantry and use within six months.

RECIPES

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2023-06-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

2023-06-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

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