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TARANAKI

The long and beneficial relationship we have with plants has been brought into focus with the rise of foraging.

- A feast of ferns from a faraway tropical forest.

This triggered memories of forest foraging wisdom passed on to me from the indigenous Penan of the Baram region of Sarawak, one of two Malaysian states on the island of Borneo. The lessons learned from a people that utilise the products of the forest in every aspect of their lives highlights how intricate and finely balanced our relationship with and need for plants remains. It reinforces the importance of conservation of our forest ecosystems whether in the depths of a tropical jungle or in our own back yards.

The Penan, for thousands of years, have lived their lives within the rainforest and until the 1950s were a nomadic tribe that moved through their forest home following resources such as wild animals, fruits and sago palm. The forest is utilised so significantly for their livelihood and spiritual wellbeing that their more recent agricultural gardens are located over an hour’s walk from the village in order to keep the integrity of the forest ecology that surrounds them.

En route to the Penan village (a two-day trek through the rainforest), we stopped at the edge of a river to camp. Every aspect of my meal that night was prepared with resources from the forest. Plates were crafted from large leaves, a cup for cool water from the river was made from a section of freshly cut bamboo, and our dinner consisted of foraged greens. Even the rice was homegrown and picked up along the way at a village we passed.

For the Penan, the forest provides all they need – roots that cleanse, leaves that cure, edible fruits and seeds. There are plants that yield glue, toxic latex for poison darts, resins and gums, twine for baskets, leaves for shelter, wood to make blowpipes, boats, tools and musical instruments. To the Penan, plants are everything – sacred and treasured.

My Penan guides shared their technique of collecting and preparing the young fronds of midin (Stenochlaena palustris) over an open fire. After a day trekking through a dazzling profusion of plant life, with senses assaulted by humid air, earthy smells and the steady drone of insects punctuated by bird song, this simple foraged meal was one of the most delicious I’ve ever had. There is something about the collecting of plant material from the wild that makes the resulting dishes sublimely rewarding.

Back home and honouring my rainforest lessons, I carefully collected a few of the young shoots of mouku, commonly called fiddleheads and known by Māori as pikopiko. They are the emerging fronds of certain species of ferns. Edible versions are produced by a few fern species throughout New Zealand and across the world. In the rainforest of Sarawak, expansive groves come up in light filled glades created by falling trees and fern fronds are a regular feature of Penan meals.

Other New Zealand native ferns that are considered tasty include the common shield fern (pikopiko), the gully fern (pākau) and hound’s tongue fern (kōwaowao). Identifying the plant you’re going to eat accurately is a crucial part of foraging, so once confirmed, a small number of the tender little spirals should be harvested when only 5cm long. At that stage, the tightly coiled stem easily pulls from the plant. As the Penan emphasise, only pick in moderation from plentiful locations. Then, it is simply a matter of cleaning and cooking (blanching and then stir-frying quickly is best, with an optional seasoning of garlic, lemon and ground horopito leaf).

Collected with permission, this gift from nature is a fun way to connect with the delight of foraging and results in delicious, nutritious and piquant flavours of the forest.

I recently discovered a large grove of native mouku (hen and chicken fern) in the tawa forest at my place.

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2022-05-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

2022-05-01T07:00:00.0000000Z

https://stuffmagazines.pressreader.com/article/282965338668901

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