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SEASONAL RECIPES

- Green beans.

PHOTOS: NICOLA GALLOWAY • PORTRAIT: DANIEL ALLEN

Memories enticed me to start a garden of my own. I recall my Nana, almost meditatively, sitting with a paring knife and bowl, topping and tailing, removing the strings and diagonally slicing the beans. They would soon be added to a pot for our dinner.

And beans are now one of my favourite summer crops. They are easy-care and with some succession planting can be harvested from December to April.

I start off the growing season with a patch of dwarf beans as they can handle the cooler nights of spring. Seeds are started inside then transplanted in October so we are eating beans by Christmas. For such small plants, they produce a solid crop. I choose a classic ‘French’ bean for blanching to serve with a simple sauce, or a quick flash on the barbecue (see ideas in the following pages).

From January on, the runner beans kick in – direct sown in November through to early February. This is when the harvest ramps up and I need to find ways to keep up with the harvest. On the following pages I share my go-to preparation to preserve excess beans into a lacto-fermented brine pickle (also find a recipe for vinegar pickle). Using a salt brine, this is the simplest form of fermentation and the resulting beans are rather addictive. My pickle-loving children eat them like gherkins for snacks.

I tend to stick to what I know in the garden, and for many years have grown the same runner bean varieties because: 1. they grow well in my garden and 2. they have great flavour (for culinary purposes). These are ‘Market Wonder’ for a good sized green bean, and ‘Purple Podded’ beans. Both varieties are flat and smooth skinned, plus stringless so require little preparation. It is not unusual to harvest a few handfuls to go straight into a pot for dinner.

I can clearly remember my Nana sitting in her recliner on a hot summer afternoon preparing fresh beans from the garden.

Lacto-Fermented Green Beans with Dill & Garlic

A lacto-fermented brine pickle is where I recommend starting if you are new to fermentation. The produce is completely submerged in the brine during fermentation so the salt naturally preserves while lactic fermentation gets underway. The result is crunchy and sour beans, not unlike a gherkin, with a hint of dill and garlic. A fantastic way to preserve a glut of beans at the height of summer.

Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes Makes an 800g jar

Approximately 400g green beans

1 tablespoon (15g) sea salt

100ml boiling water

400ml cold filtered water

2 tablespoons cultured whey*

3-4 garlic cloves, unpeeled and lightly crushed 2-3 sprigs of dill or fennel fronds

Wash a 800g jar (or 2 x 400g jars) and lid thoroughly, and rinse with hot water to remove any soap residue. Air dry on a dish rack while preparing the beans. If possible, select tall jars so the beans can be left whole.

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and add the beans.

Blanch for 2 minutes then drain and refresh in cold water.

Place the salt into a jug and add the boiling water. Stir to dissolve the salt then add the cold water followed by the whey. Stir to combine.

Set the jar on its side and pack snugly with the whole beans (cut the beans to size if needed). Layer in the garlic cloves and dill as you pack the beans. Pour over the salt brine to completely cover the beans, coming to within 1cm from the top of the jar. You don’t want the beans to float to the surface, so make sure they are firmly packed. Secure the lid. If there is extra brine, set this aside for topping up the jar later if needed.

Sit the jar on a small plate and leave at room temperature for two to three days. Open the lid once a day to release (burp) any pressure. The brine may bubble over a little during fermentation; if so, top up with the reserved brine to 1cm from the top of the jar keeping the beans submerged.

Once the beans have changed colour to a muted green and the brine is opaque, transfer to the fridge. Wait a week before eating for the sour flavour to develop. Store the lacto beans in the fridge and consume within two months.

*Cultured whey is the opaque liquid left over from low-heat cheesemaking. To obtain whey, strain natural unsweetened yoghurt (cow, goat or coconut) through a cheesecloth-lined sieve set over a bowl. Over several hours the liquid whey will drip out as the yoghurt thickens. Keep whey in a jar in the fridge and use within two weeks.

Once the beans have changed colour to a muted green and the brine is opaque, transfer to the fridge. Wait a week before eating for the sour flavour to develop. Store the lacto beans in the fridge and consume within two months.

More ways to prepare beans Freeze excess –

Top and tail the beans, removing strings. Cut into 4-5cm lengths. Blanch beans for 2 minutes in boiling water then immediately refresh in a bowl of cold water. Dry on a tea towel to remove excess water then transfer to a freezer bag. Freeze beans for up to 6 months.

BBQ Beans with Yoghurt Dill Sauce –

Blanch green beans in boiling water for 2 minutes, refresh in cold water. Toss onto a piping hot barbecue plate or pre-heated frying pan with a slick of oil and flick of salt. Move around until golden and lightly blistered, about 3-4 minutes. Remove to a plate and serve with yoghurt dill sauce – combine ½ cup natural yogurt, 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill, 1 finely grated garlic clove and season to taste.

Vinegar Pickled Beans –

Blanch 400g beans for 2 minutes, refresh in cold water. Pack into an 800ml jar with 1 teaspoon each mustard seeds, coriander seeds and whole peppercorns. In a saucepan, combine 300ml white wine vinegar, 150ml water, 3-4 tablespoons sugar and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a brief simmer then cool. Pour the pickling liquid over the beans to fill the jar. Store in the fridge, waiting 12 hours before eating. Consume within 2 months.

Classic French Nicoise Salad

Boil 500g new potatoes, halve and arrange on a large plate. Scatter with 200g blanched green beans, 12 halved cherry tomatoes, 4 quartered soft-boiled eggs, 180g can tuna in olive oil, and ½ cup olives. In a jar make a dressing of 4 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon white vinegar, 1 teaspoon dijon mustard, ½ teaspoon sugar and pinch of salt. Shake to combine, drizzle over the salad and serve.

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2022-01-01T08:00:00.0000000Z

2022-01-01T08:00:00.0000000Z

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