All About Brussels Sprouts

In this series on how to make the most of your homegrown harvests, Nicola Galloway repairs the reputation of one of Kiwis’ least favourite veges.

Let’s face it, brussels sprouts are not the most revered vegetable. However, I do feel they have been given a bad rap so I am putting them in the spotlight this month. I can understand how their reputation came to be tarnished. Brussels sprouts boiled until mushy with the vibrant colour drained out is enough to put anyone off, myself included. Extended boiling or cooking will enhance their bitterness. Brussels sprouts are best lightly stir-fried, steamed, roasted, or even shaved raw into a salad. Pair them with robust flavours and they start to shine.

Brussels sprouts are a surprising vege to grow, standing to attention with a thick umbrella of leaves and the sprouts growing in a helical pattern along the stalk. I have only grown them once with mediocre results due to the low winter sun hours in my valley garden (that is simply not conducive to large cruciferous plants). Thankfully, leafy greens, sprouting broccoli, fennel, herbs and salad greens grow with gusto so I am not left completely empty-handed over the winter months.

Intrigued to see how successful brussels sprouts grow, I visited local organic grower Dom Ferretti from Ferretti Growers to see the impressive rows in his fields. He sowed organic seed from King Seeds (‘Igor F1’) in early February and transplanted it in mid-March. This is a little later than usual but with the sunny winter days in the Tasman plains, Dom will be picking by mid- to late winter to include in their weekly vege boxes. (Dom admits he doesn’t grow as many brussels sprouts as other brassicas such as broccoli as they just aren’t a common favourite.)

As the name may suggest, brussels sprouts are popular in Belgium, although they are believed to originate in the Mediterranean and were grown as far back as Roman times. Like all cruciferous veges, their flavour improves and sweetens after a cold snap so I always wait until the winter frosts have arrived before searching them out.

ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH CAESAR DRESSING

Roasting brussels sprouts is my favourite way to prepare them. This reduces bitterness and brings out their natural sweetness. If you are handpicking your sprouts, either from the garden or a vege bin at the store, choose smallto medium-sized as they will be less bitter. The robust flavour of a classic caesar salad dressing works incredibly well to balance the brussels sprouts. Preparation time: 20 minutes. Cooking time: 25 minutes

Ingredients • 500g brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved • 2 tablespoon olive oil • pinch of salt • 30g parmesan, finely grated • 1/3 cup breadcrumbs • 4 rashers streaky bacon, finely chopped

Caesar dressing • 2 free-range egg yolks • 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed

• 2 anchovy fillets (optional) • Juice of ½ lemon, about 2 tablespoons • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard • ½ teaspoon Worchester sauce • handful of grated parmesan

• pinch of sugar (optional, helps to balance the salty flavours) • generous twist of black pepper • 150ml olive oil (or combination of olive oil and a neutral tasting oil)

Preheat oven to 200°C (fan 180°C). Place the brussels sprouts onto a large oven tray. Drizzle with olive oil, season with salt and toss well to evenly coat the sprouts. Spread them into a single layer, ideally not touching so they roast evenly rather than steam. Place in the oven for 15-20 minutes until the brussels sprouts are just tender.

Use a metal spatula to flip the veges. Sprinkle parmesan and breadcrumbs

(it is OK if the sprouts are touching now) and place back in the oven for about 5-6 minutes until the breadcrumbs are golden. Scoop into a serving dish.

Fry the bacon until crispy. Sprinkle over the veges when they are ready to serve.

Make the dressing while the brussels sprouts are cooking. Place all of the dressing ingredients besides the oil into a blender and blitz to combine. With the engine running, slowly pour in the olive oil until the dressing is creamy and thick. Check the taste, adding extra lemon juice if needed. Pour into a bowl and serve alongside the veges. Leftover dressing can be stored in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Serves 4 as a side

Leftover dressing can be used in sandwiches, served with other roasted vegetables or dolloped onto lettuce wedges.

BRUSSELS SPROUT, FENNEL & MANDARIN SLAW

Raw sprouts have a sweet texture that works well with veges such as crunchy fennel and tender-leafed Chinese cabbage. Preparation time: 20 minutes

Ingredients • about 200g Brussels sprouts

• about ¼ Chinese cabbage, finely shredded

• 1 small fennel bulb, very thinly sliced

• 2 mandarins, peeled and thin sliced into rounds • ½ cup hazelnuts, toasted and roughly chopped

Mandarin mustard dressing • juice of 1 mandarin, about 2 tablespoons

• juice of ½ lemon, about 2 tablespoons

• 1 teaspoon wholegrain mustard

• 1 teaspoon honey • pinch of salt

• ¼ cup (60ml) extra virgin olive oil

Trim the brussels sprouts and remove any tough outer leaves. Use a mandolin or sharp knife to very thinly shred the sprouts. Place onto a salad platter along with the cabbage and fennel. Toss to combine. Dot with the mandarin slices and scatter with chopped hazelnuts.

To make the dressing: combine all the ingredients in a jar, shaking well. Check flavour, adding salt or honey if needed. Drizzle half of the dressing over the salad just prior serving and toss to combine. Serve extra dressing on the side.

Serves 4 as a side

EXCESS SPROUTS?

Blanch and freeze them as you would other veges. Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and add a generous pinch of salt. Cut the sprouts into similar sized pieces and drop them into the boiling water. Cook for 3-5 minutes until slightly tender. Drain and refresh the sprouts in cold water.

Drain well in a sieve or colander then tip onto a clean tea towel to catch any extra water. Roll them around until nice and dry (remove as much cooking water as possible so they don’t freeze together). Place the brussels sprouts into a freezer bag or container and freeze for up to 3 months.

To cook, place frozen sprouts straight into boiling salted water. Bring back to the boil and simmer until tender. They can also be parboiled for 2-3 minutes then well drained and added to a tray of roastie veges or stir-fry.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS 4 WAYS

Steamed with lemon and olive oil It always amazes me how a squeeze of lemon can transform a dish. Steam the veges until just tender – don’t overcook or they will become bitter. Tip onto a plate, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Squeeze over the juice of half a lemon and toss to combine. Serve immediately.

Use brussels sprouts in a stir-fry With all the layers of small leaves, brussels sprouts absorb flavours well. Add halved or quartered sprouts to a stir-fry with carrots, cabbage and leek. Flavour with 2 teaspoons finely grated ginger, 2 crushed garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon sesame oil and 1 tablespoon soy sauce or tamari. Sprinkle toasted sesame seeds and serve.

Braised sprouts with mozzarella This is a special vege dish I make on occasion when I splash out on local handmade mozzarella. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a frying pan. Cut about 12 sprouts in half, then place cut side down in the base of the pan so they fit snugly in a single layer. Cook until lightly golden on the underside (don’t flip them). Season well and add ½ cup stock (vegetable or chicken) and cover with a lid. Cook for 8-10 minutes until the sprouts are tender and the stock has been absorbed. Arrange slices of mozzarella or 1 cup grated cheese over them and place under the grill until melted and bubbling. Serve immediately.

Add to a roastie vegetable tray

I cook a lot of roastie vegetables through the winter months. I like to think beyond the ubiquitous root veges, and to a tray of ku¯ mara, carrots and potatoes I will often add halved brussels sprouts, cauliflower florets or sprouting broccoli. Chop the vegetables into similar-sized pieces and spread in a single layer on a large oven tray. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Toss to combine and roast at 200°C for 25-30 minutes, flipping the veges halfway through for even cooking. ✤

Nicola Galloway is a cookbook author, food writer and culinary tutor based in Nelson. For more info: homegrown-kitchen.co.nz.

With all the layers of small leaves, brussels sprouts absorb flavours well.